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Brown Spots
"What causes brown spots in my lawn?"
Diagnosing brown spots in a lawn can be hard for even the seasoned professional. The reason is that there are so many possibilities and many times more than one thing is contributing to the problem. This leaves us with the dilemma of what is the main problem(s).
The first things to address are cultural practices. Has the lawn been mowed at the proper height? Has it received the proper amount of water? These are the two most important things to a health lawn.
The second things to address are environment. What has the weather been like? Does it favor disease conditions? Does it favor insect activity? Have there been patterns of certain problems recently?
The third thing is human or animal factors. Have chemicals been applied or spilled recently (burns will occur in 2-3 days)? Are pets or rodents causing the damage? Is it due to heavy traffic or use? These are only some of the questions that will need to be answered in order to properly diagnose brown spots.
As you can see diagnosing a brown spot can be difficult. It is very similar to a doctor diagnosing a patient, there is so many factors that play apart in your lawns health and the cause may be more than one thing.
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Chinch bugs
"What are Chinch bugs?"
Chinch bugs are tiny little bugs that suck out the grass plant juices and inject salivary fluids in to the plant causing it to turn yellow and eventually brown. Chinch bugs are extremely hard to find the adult only grows to ¼” in length. Chinch bugs can cause severe damage to lawns that are exposed to full sun and dry out quickly. They will remain active during the season as long as temperatures stay warm. 2-3 generations per season is normal in southeast Michigan
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Crab Grass
"What is crab grass?"
Many grasses are mistaken to be ‘crabgrass’. In Michigan crabgrass does not emerge from the ground until around June/July, so if you see a funny looking grass in your lawn before this time of the year it’s not crabgrass. Crabgrass is an annual which means it dies off each season and new plants grow the following season. The reason it is so feared is because 1 plant can drop up to 1000 seeds for the next season, so a small problem can become a big problem. Crabgrass can usually be identified by how the blades grow somewhat flat to the ground; they typically do not stand upright. Also the blades grow out in 360 degrees.
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Cutworms/Armyworms
"What are Cutworms and armyworms?"
Cutworms and armyworms are similar in nature to the sod webworm. Their life cycle involves an adult moth which lays eggs that will quickly hatch and produce the cutworm. The cutworm will chew on the crown of the grass plant and cause it to turn brown. These worms are larger than the webworm and can be found easier; however they feed at night and burrow into the thatch during the day.
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Dog damage
"Does your lawn suffer from dog damage?"
Tired of dog spots in your yard? Although nothing is 100% effective the following advice may help. The best thing to do is lightly rake the damaged areas and repair them with a lawn patch or some topsoil and grass seed. You can use this method anytime during the warm season; however, the spring and fall is the best time to seed. Personally, I use grass seed in the spring after the damage that occurs over winter (which is usually quite bad).
Applying extra water via your hose will also help to reduce the spots and also speed up recovery time. A quick soaking of each spot will help to stimulate new growth. Some suggest feeding your dog different supplements to change the acidic content of the animal’s urine, but again nothing is 100% effective.
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Drought Stress
"How can I prevent my lawn from experiencing drought stress?"
Drought stress occurs when the moisture level in soil it to low for the grass plants to stay actively growing. What happens is the lawn goes into a dormant state similar to what it does in the winter time. The blades become brown the lawn stops growing. When moisture returns to the soil the lawn will begin to grow again and the color will return. This may take a couple weeks as it does during the spring. Different conditions can add to drought stress such as mowing too short, mowing during excessive heat, exposed sunny areas, slopes and areas that are adjacent to concrete or asphalt. Avoid drought stress by keeping your lawn mowed tall (3” or higher) and keep the lawn properly watered (1-2” per week).
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Grass seed
"When should I use grass seed?"
Seeding is an excellent process to use to establish new lawns and repair existing lawns as well. You can use seeding to repair areas damaged by dog damage, disease, insects, shade, burned areas, winter damage, etc. Areas that are smaller than a dinner plate do not require seeding or repair. If the lawn is properly cared for these areas will recover on their own in about 2-4 weeks.
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"What type of grass seed should I use?"
One of the most important things when repairing with seed is the seed that you choose. All seed is not created equal. When shopping for seed use these rules of thumb 1. Use a trusted brand name that you’ve heard before 2. Buy the expensive stuff 3. Make sure you buy the right blend (consult with a professional). There are several ways to seed your lawn depending on your situation. It is always best to consult with a professional or if you’re in doubt have a professional do the job for you. Proper care for your seed will last for 3-4 weeks after you have planted.
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Grubs
"What are Grubs and how do I get rid of them?"
Grubs are the most talked about lawn insect because they can cause severe damage to a lawn. Grub damage will appear as irregular shaped brown spots in the lawn. Unlike drought stress or burns the grass will roll back like carpet. This is due to the root damage caused by the grubs.
Let’s look at the lifecycle of the grub. There are two main stages in a grubs life 1.The larve (or grub) 2. The beetle (adult). In the southeast Michigan area we commonly see the Japanese beetle, which is the adult form of the grub much like the butterfly is the adult of the caterpillar. The beetles will lay eggs in lawns around July. These eggs will soon hatch the next generation of grubs which will feed on the lawn during the late summer and fall. In May/June the following season the grubs will then transform into beetles and emerge from the ground and so the cycle continues. When targeting grubs (larvae) using a season long control it is best to target them at or right before egg hatch (June/July). This is quite possible; however timing, product application and product selection all play a key role in effective ‘season long’ control. Be sure to read the label before applying any lawn product.
It is also possible to target grubs after they have hatched in the lawn. It is important to note that most season long products will not target hatched grubs. If you find a grub problem late summer or fall you will need to use a product that will target large grub larvae.
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Japanese Beetle
"Preventing Japanese beetles the adult form of the white grub."
During the months of May/June they emerge from the ground and start feeding on leaves of perennials, trees and shrubs. As if they didn’t do enough damage to our lawn as a grub. The problem with controlling beetles is obvious, they can fly! So they can come from long distances to feed on your plants. Several methods are available to control beetles my suggestion would be to treat the effected plants on an as needed basis.
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Moles
"What are Moles?"
Moles are small rodents that live below the surface and feed on insects within the soil. Moles can cover large distances or create many tracks in the same area. Typically, there are two species of moles found in Michigan. The first is the eastern mole which causes damage by tunneling through your lawn, pushing up the turf and causing unsightly damage. This can also cause problems for lawn mowing. The second is the star nose mole which can dig deep and create mounds of soil above the surface on the lawn.
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"How to get Rid of Moles?"
The best solution for mole control is to trap the mole using a mechanical device. You can find these for sale or rent in most garden centers or hardware stores. Moles create many tunnels, however, they create a “main” tunnel that branches into other tunnels. The key is to locate the main tunnel. This will take some time and patience. When you see tracks in your lawn, push them down by walking on them like a balance beam. Afterward, monitor the tracks and identify the one that is more pushed up than the others - this is most likely the main track. This process may take a day or two, but is effective in trapping the mole. Just a quick note - moles are blind and have a strong sense of smell. If they detect your scent, the mole will avoid the area so make sure to wear gloves when handling traps or baits.
There are several other methods that claim to be effective in controlling moles, such as baits, repellents, insect controls, and poisons. In truth, all have limited or no effectiveness.
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Mower Stress
"How to determine if your lawn is experiencing mower stress."
Mowing is very stressful for all those little grass plants! Mower stress can occur in several different ways. The first is quite simple a dull mower blade. This is evident by the white or gray look that the lawn will take on. Upon close inspection of the grass blade you will notice that the tip of the blade has several little hairs sticking up above the cut line. The cut line should be clean like you cut the blade with scissors. Check your mower blade or have a professional check it for you. Read your instruction manual and follow all safety guidelines before handling, sharpening or removing your lawn mower blade. The blade should be quite sharp like a kitchen knife; a dull rounded edge will not cut properly.
The second type of mower stress is caused by heat, drought and mowing. It is seen more often with commercial mowers or riding mowers. What can occur is when the lawn is drought stressed and the temperatures are hot the grass blades become ‘brittle’ and they can break under the weight of the mower tires and possibly from the action of the mower blade. Usually when this occurs you will see brown ‘tracks’ in the lawn were the mower tires ran over the turf. The damage will only be temporary provided the lawn is properly watered. The same can occur if there is a heavy frost on the lawn and the damage may not be seen until the following spring.
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Mowing & Watering
"Information you should know about mowing."
Mowing is the most important thing for your lawn and not just mowing, but proper mowing. Most southeastern Michigan lawns are primarily Kentucky bluegrass. Some basic rules of thumb for Kentucky Bluegrass lawns:
1. These lawns should be mowed at 3 inches or greater for best performance. If you are in doubt use your highest mower setting. There are several advantages to mowing at this height; reduction of weed growth, lower watering requirements, less insect/disease problems and better color.
2. Don’t bag your grass! Lawn clippings are natural fertilizer and despite popular belief will not cause thatch problems as a matter of fact they will reduce thatch! Be sure not to leave the clippings in clumps or piles on the lawn because this may smoother areas of the lawn; disperse the clippings by cutting the lawn twice in different directions.
3. Mow ever 5-7 days during active growth. When possible avoid mowing on hot days or during hotter times of the day. This can be challenging during the summer or if you have a lawn service mowing your lawn.
4. During times of drought stress it is better to avoid mowing and wait until the lawn has received some water before mowing.
5. Mow in different patterns or directions; this will help prevent ruts or canals in the lawn.
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"Information you should know about watering your lawn."
Watering is the second most important thing for your lawn. Some basic rules of thumb for watering your lawn:
1. Normal watering should take place during the morning hours. Try to avoid the grass being wet during the evening/nighttime hours.
2. Most lawns require 1.5 inches of water per week. This provided that the proper mowing practices are being followed. Heavy deep watering is preferred over light, frequent watering. Exceptions are noted with sandy soils where water is not retained.
3. How much is 1.5 inches? Water your lawn 2-3 times weekly about 20 minutes each zone. Keep in mind this is a generalization; your lawn, your sprinkler system and weather conditions are all important factors.
Notice that fertilizer is last on the list. This does not mean that it is not important. Fertilizer can help a lawn look its best, but if the mowing and watering practices are not followed properly then the fertilizer will only be trying to make up for lost ground.
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Mushrooms
"What causes Mushrooms?"
Mushroom growth in lawns is the result of organic matter decaying in the ground. Common organic matter includes old tree roots, wood or timber. Mushroom growth usually increases when excessive moisture is present in the soil or after rainfall.
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Rodent problems
"How can I get rid of Rodents?"
Rodent Problems, such as skunks, may dig in your lawn to find food. There is no simple solution for rodents and there is little help we can offer. Most rodent problems occur for a limited time and will usually go away. Traps are available at local hardware store. Some things to consider before trapping: What kind of animal will you be trapping, what kind of bait will you use, and what will do with the animal after you trap it?
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Thatch
"Facts and Myths about Thatch."
Myth – thatch is the build up of grass clippings and other debris. Contrary to popular belief grass clippings do not create thatch. Grass blades are made up of mostly water and breakdown very rapidly.
Fact – thatch is the breakdown of the root system and grass stems caused by cultural, biological and environmental factors.
Myth – thatch is bad
Fact – excessive thatch is bad. ½ inch of thatch is actually beneficial to a lawn. A thin layer of thatch will block sunlight from the soil preventing weed germination and moisture loss.
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"How can I control the amount of Thatch in my lawn?"
When thatch build up exceeds ½ inch control methods are required. Avoid excessive nitrogen applications; use more slow releasing nitrogen products. Avoid over watering the lawn. Core aeration is one of the best methods used to control thatch. By pulling the cores from the ground the soil compaction is reduced and the plugs left atop the lawn will actually help to decompose the thatch layer. Aeration should be done annually to keep thatch at an acceptable level. Power raking is also another method of mechanically ripping the thatch from the lawn. This process is recommended when thatch levels are very high. Keep in mind power raking may also damage health grass and overseeding may be needed to repair minor damage.
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Webworms
"Have you ever seen little white moths flying up out of your lawn?"
Well then you have seen sod webworm moths. The moths are the adult form of the webworm. The moths will lay eggs in the lawn that will hatch in 7-14 days and produce the next generation of webworms. The larvae (worms) will feed on the stems and leafs of the grass during the nighttime hours. Webworm damage will usually occur in small patches, but can be more severe and damage large areas. Some signs of webworm damage are grass plants that rip out easily or small green pellets know as ‘frass’ will be found in the thatch layer.
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"When should I treat my lawn for web worms?"
When treating for webworms timing is important. Most insect controls for home lawns will target the worm (larvae) and not the moths. So, if you see the moths then the damage from the worms has already been done and you will need to target the next generation of worms. In southeast Michigan we will have 2-3 generations per season of webworms.
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Weeds (Broadleaf)
"What causes broad leaf weeds?"
Weed growth is the number one problem for lawns and landscapes. Basically, weeds are undesirable plants growing where a plant is not wanted. Therefore, certain grasses may also be ‘weeds’ (for info on grassy weeds click grassy weeds) When controlling weeds it is helpful to understand why they grow. Most common broadleaf weeds are an annual plant which means their life cycle occurs every year and some may occur more than once per season, such as dandelions. Weed seeds from the previous generations will create new weeds and the cycle continues. Seeds can be carried by the wind, birds, and many other sources. The two key elements in weed growth are sunlight and water. When sunlight and water make contact with the soil, weed seeds germinate.
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"How can I get rid of broad leaf weeds?"
Weed control is a broad topic. There are multiple solutions. To control weeds in turf, keep a thick, healthy lawn. Sound simple? It is. The most important activity is mowing. Home turf in Michigan should be mowed at 3-3.5 inches in height. At this height the lawn will reduce the amount of sunlight able to make contact with the soil, which will reduce seed germination of weeds. A properly mowed and watered lawn will reduce weeds by 90%. Using a broadleaf weed control is very effective for controlling turf weeds and the most widely used by commercial lawn companies. Keep in mind that this will only target weeds that have already germinated.
Pre-emergent weed controls create a chemical ‘barrier’ on top of the soil which prevents weeds from germinating. Pre-emergent controls are used for crabgrass and also can be useful in landscape bed areas. Unfortunately, pre-emergent weed controls can be affected by weather conditions and timing of the application.
Round-up or using non-selective weed controls is useful for cracks in concrete or landscape beds. When using products in a landscaped area be sure to read the label before applying any product.
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Weeds (Grassy)
"What are grassy type weeds and how can they be controlled?"
Grassy weeds can come in many forms. We will address some that are common to our area. It is important to understand that a weed to one person may be desirable to another. Many grassy weeds fall into this category.
Course fescue – is most commonly confused as being ‘crabgrass’ when in fact it is not. Course fescue has a very wide blade and can with stand almost any condition. It requires very little water, sunlight or any care for that matter. It will remain green even during hot dry periods, it resists disease and insect damage. However it is very unsightly to most people.
Bent grass - is the type of turf that is designed for golf course greens. The preferred cutting height is less than ½ inch and should be done with a reel mower. Well when this grass occurs in our home lawns it can be an eye sore because proper mowing height is 3 inches or greater and we don’t use reel mowers. Bentgrass can be identified by its habit to lay over in different directions and the smooth feel of the grass blades.
Quackgrass - is also commonly mistaken for crabgrass. This grass is most evident during the spring due to the fact that it will begin growing faster than other grasses. This grass in commonly found along roadsides and in fields. When it makes it way into home lawns it can be unsightly. When bluegrass is actively growing it will usually mask the appearance of quackgrass.
The 3 grasses listed above are actually ‘grasses’ or perennials meaning that they live through out the growing season, go dormant for the winter and emerge from dormancy the following spring. Some plants that are quote ‘grasses’ are actually annuals. This means that the plant germinates during the growing season and dies off at first frost and new plants grow in the spring. Some plants that fall into this category are crabgrass, nutsedge grass, goose grass, foxtail and barnyard grass. Although their name may contain the word ‘grass’ it is somewhat erroneous. What is important is that annual ‘grasses’ can usually be controlled using different chemical methods, were as perennial grass cannot be selectively controlled through chemical methods.
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